INTRODUCTION

The Green Anole (Anolis carolinensis) is the only anole species native to the United States. Over 250 anole species exist worldwide, and several others are commonly kept in captivity including the Cuban Anole (A. equestris), Crested Anole (A. garmani), and Brown Anole (A. sagrei). Green Anoles are found throughout the southeastern United States, Cuba, Jamaica and other Caribbean islands. Almost 40 non-native anole species have established invasive populations in Florida alone. They are highly adaptable and occupy bushes, trees, walls, forests and human-altered environments.

These lizards are diurnal and often seen basking in exposed areas such as branches, fences and walls. Their ability to climb vertical surfaces is due to specialised lamellae on their digits. Young animals of both sexes and adult females often display a pale dorsal stripe. Their colour-changing ability — shifting from green to brown — has led to the nickname “false chameleon”.

Sexual dimorphism is marked, with males larger than females. Males reach approximately 18 cm total length and are generally 15% larger than females. Animals in captivity are often slightly smaller due to suboptimal diet or husbandry. Males have a double dewlap, used in territorial and courtship displays, and may show a short dorsal ridge behind the head. Femoral pores are more pronounced in males. Their mating system is described as “female-defence polygyny,” in which males patrol and defend territories containing females.

Wild diet consists of small arthropods including insects, worms, spiders, cockroaches, butterflies and any invertebrate that fits within their mouth. In captivity prey should generally not exceed two-thirds of the width of the anole’s head.

CAPTIVE HUSBANDRY

TERRARIUM

Green Anoles may be kept individually or in groups, although males must not be housed together. A suitable enclosure for a group (one male with two to three females) is approximately 100 × 30 × 50 cm. These reptiles are very active, so a tall, arboreal setup is preferred over a horizontal one. Many commercially available terrariums include a mesh top with the option of attaching a lighting hood externally, reducing the risk of burns.

A substrate of peat, bark or a mixture of both is commonly used to mimic forest floor conditions. Sand should be avoided. Live plants such as ivy, vines, orchids and broad-leafed cover provide essential climbing structures and hiding areas. Autotomy may occur if the tail is grabbed or the animal becomes stressed.

LIGHTING

Full-spectrum lighting including UVB is essential for this species. A photoperiod of 12–14 hours is recommended. UVB plays a key role in calcium metabolism and prevents metabolic bone disease. UVA contributes to behavioural cues and natural colour vision. Lights should be replaced according to manufacturer guidance.

TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY

A temperature gradient of 24–27°C should be maintained during the day with a night-time drop to 18–23°C. A basking spot, ideally positioned above branches, should reach 29.5–32.5°C. Prior to the breeding season (spring–summer) these anoles naturally undergo a short cooling period with temperatures reduced to 19–21°C during the day and 15.5°C at night.

Relative humidity should be kept between 60–70%, resembling damp but not saturated rainforest conditions. Green Anoles drink droplets from leaves in their natural habitat; while many will learn to drink from a bowl, providing a drip system or automated misting system is preferred.

FOOD, SUPPLEMENTS AND WATER

Captive diet is typically based on crickets and mealworms, but a wider range of insects should be offered daily due to their high metabolic rate. Live prey should be removed if uneaten, as some insects can injure the lizard.

All insects must be gut-loaded for 24–48 hours prior to feeding. Suitable foods include tropical fish flakes, vegetables, fruit, calcium and vitamin supplements. Dehydration is a leading cause of cannibalism among feeder insects, so moisture sources for feeders should be provided.

Calcium supplementation is recommended with the majority of feeds, and a multivitamin (including vitamin D3) should be provided regularly if UVB exposure is suboptimal.

REPRODUCTION

Breeding typically occurs during spring and summer following a cooling period. For several weeks temperatures are lowered to 18.5–21°C during the day and 15.5°C at night. Photoperiod may be gradually increased from 8 hours to 12–14 hours.

Breeding animals must be well-conditioned, receiving adequate UVB, vitamins and calcium. Thin or weak individuals should not be cooled.

Males display their dewlap and approach females, which may flee if not receptive. Mating usually takes place in the afternoon. After 1–2 weeks, the female will show abdominal enlargement. A warm, moist laying site must be provided. Females lay 1–2 eggs every two weeks, producing approximately 10 eggs per season. Eggs may remain in situ or be transferred to an incubator.



Incubation is often performed using a 1:1 water-to-vermiculite ratio at 27.5–29.5°C, with hatching in 35–40 days. Substrate moisture must be monitored weekly. Hatchlings measure approximately 3 cm SVL and are highly active. They may be offered micro-crickets or Drosophila once appropriately gut-loaded.